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Mario Kart >> Super Mario Kart >> Non-NBT Strats?
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Message started by Maeda on 07/06/19 at 08:02:18

Title: Non-NBT Strats?
Post by Maeda on 07/06/19 at 08:02:18
I was just wondering if there were any posts I could be linked to that have strats for Non-NBT. If there are none, I would really appreciate if some members could leave some strats in replies. I already know about counter steering and Non-NBT boosts and I am curious if there are more I don’t know about.

Title: Re: Non-NBT Strats?
Post by Dave Smith on 07/06/19 at 08:05:56
When it comes to Non-NBT it is really just all about driving the track as tight as you can.

You can check this site out for all the rules of Non-NBT if that will help.

http://www.mariokart64.com/smknonnbt/

There are videos you can watch on here and also YouTube.

Title: Re: Non-NBT Strats?
Post by Harvey Kartel on 07/06/19 at 18:56:03
It looks like you're fairly new here and probably aren't ready to learn the more advanced NBT tactics. All beginners drive Non-NBT by definition. There are however some things you can work on to improve your game...

Learn to execute the following techniques:

-Always play as Bowser or DK Jr. They experience a lot of centrifugal force when turning but this can be kept in check by hopping in the opposite direction. It seems counterintuitive at first to press the control pad to ths outside of the curve, but due to the way SMK's physics work, centrifugal force will pull Bowser/DK Jr. in the direction opposite that which they are trying to steer. If you are really having trouble at first then use Mario/Luigi for some of the trickier courses to familiarize yourself with the turns, but you will certainly need the faster speed of a heavyweight driver to advance beyond the lower Veteran ranks.
-The platform jumps on the GVs. The one on GV3 is pretty easy to do, but GV1 and especially GV2 are very difficult to make without boosts, especially if you are playing the PAL version. Be sure to jump over the two jump bars (see below)
-Don't drive over the jump bars on the BCs. Jump over them as late as possible, so that you will clear both the jump bar and the lava pit that it's supposed to take you over. Driving over jump bars reduces your speed, especially if you run over two or three consecutively.
-There is a hidden jump bar in the walled-off green area to the left when you are making the crossover jump on MC2. If you land on this jump bar you will bounce high and will be able to land near the finish line, saving some time. But it will take some practice to hit this jump bar, especially in all five laps, do beware the risk (if you don't land squarely on the bar you will end up in the green area, which is out of bounds)
-You can use a jump bar to jump over the small chocolate lake on the last turn of CI1. Jump bars work differently on the CIs-- they preserve your speed, so do not be afraid to drive over them. If you want to save more time, it's possible to hop between this chocolate lake and the inside of the curve, but this is quite difficult to do.
-If you drift long enough and then get out of the drift you will get a short speed boost. While under the effect of this boost, centrifugal force does not affect you. Use these boosts to help you get out of the 180-degree turns in the second half of DP2.
-Press R just as you're about to hit a wall, and your Kart will not be stopped by it (although you will still lose some speed). I call this a "jump-cancel". Jump-canceling is highly useful when clearing ice blocks in the first lap of a VL1 race.
-Speaking of VL1, plug a controller into the second port at the character select screen and press Start. This will allow you to race against a computer-controlled ghost. It moves quite slow but it will help clear some ice blocks for you in VL1.
-To do a snowslide, act as if you're going to drift into the snow, then release the gas before your kart touches the snow. Reapply the gas after returning to the road. Practice this on the last turn of VL1.
-General tip: to get better control of your Kart, release the gas very briefly as you make a turn. I refer to this action as "killing it" (as in, killing the gas) and I did it fairly often when I was newer to time trialing, and the better I got at driving, the less frequently I killed it (as releasing the gas does, after all, reduce the kart's speed), but I still often kill it before getting ready to "thread the ice needle" on VL2 (if you've played this track at all, you know exactly what I mean by threading the ice needle) in order to help align the kart without skidding.
-Another general tip: do your lap record attempts in the second lap, or later. It might not seem like it due to that starting boost, but your first lap will always be a couple of tenths slower.
-You lose much less speed bouncing off of deep water on NTSC than on PAL. In courses like KB1, DP3, or VL2, it may be worth jumping over the water to save driving distance, since you lose little speed on NTSC, but if you are playing PAL, the water is generally to be avoided.

P.S. Here's (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYounzgktmM) a video I uploaded last month of a 1'01"72 time driven on MC1 (the very first track in the game) in the PAL version with no NBTs, boosts, pipe jumps, or other advanced techniques-- just me trying to get around each turn as tight as I could. Sorry for the poor camera control in the first lap.
This time would make the top 100 and rate a Hero F on Sami's rankings, and is still 0"73 slower than the best time driven with this strat, but this should provide a good example of how you can get decent ranking times without advanced tricks, just good driving and a little luck.

Title: Re: Non-NBT Strats?
Post by Maeda on 07/06/19 at 19:45:53

77505A515655584A6671584B4F5C40390 wrote:
It looks like you're fairly new here and probably aren't ready to learn the more advanced NBT tactics. All beginners drive Non-NBT by definition. There are however some things you can work on to improve your game...

Learn to execute the following techniques:

-Always play as Bowser or DK Jr. They experience a lot of centrifugal force when turning but this can be kept in check by hopping in the opposite direction. It seems counterintuitive at first to press the control pad to ths outside of the curve, but due to the way SMK's physics work, centrifugal force will pull Bowser/DK Jr. in the direction opposite that which they are trying to steer. If you are really having trouble at first then use Mario/Luigi for some of the trickier courses to familiarize yourself with the turns, but you will certainly need the faster speed of a heavyweight driver to advance beyond the lower Veteran ranks.
-The platform jumps on the GVs. The one on GV3 is pretty easy to do, but GV1 and especially GV2 are very difficult to make without boosts, especially if you are playing the PAL version. Be sure to jump over the two jump bars (see below)
-Don't drive over the jump bars on the BCs. Jump over them as late as possible, so that you will clear both the jump bar and the lava pit that it's supposed to take you over. Driving over jump bars reduces your speed, especially if you run over two or three consecutively.
-There is a hidden jump bar in the walled-off green area to the left when you are making the crossover jump on MC2. If you land on this jump bar you will bounce high and will be able to land near the finish line, saving some time. But it will take some practice to hit this jump bar, especially in all five laps, do beware the risk (if you don't land squarely on the bar you will end up in the green area, which is out of bounds)
-You can use a jump bar to jump over the small chocolate lake on the last turn of CI1. Jump bars work differently on the CIs-- they preserve your speed, so do not be afraid to drive over them. If you want to save more time, it's possible to hop between this chocolate lake and the inside of the curve, but this is quite difficult to do.
-If you drift long enough and then get out of the drift you will get a short speed boost. While under the effect of this boost, centrifugal force does not affect you. Use these boosts to help you get out of the 180-degree turns in the second half of DP2.
-Press R just as you're about to hit a wall, and your Kart will not be stopped by it (although you will still lose some speed). I call this a "jump-cancel". Jump-canceling is highly useful when clearing ice blocks in the first lap of a VL1 race.
-Speaking of VL1, plug a controller into the second port at the character select screen and press Start. This will allow you to race against a computer-controlled ghost. It moves quite slow but it will help clear some ice blocks for you in VL1.
-To do a snowslide, act as if you're going to drift into the snow, then release the gas before your kart touches the snow. Reapply the gas after returning to the road. Practice this on the last turn of VL1.
-General tip: to get better control of your Kart, release the gas very briefly as you make a turn. I refer to this action as "killing it" (as in, killing the gas) and I did it fairly often when I was newer to time trialing, and the better I got at driving, the less frequently I killed it (as releasing the gas does, after all, reduce the kart's speed), but I still often kill it before getting ready to "thread the ice needle" on VL2 (if you've played this track at all, you know exactly what I mean by threading the ice needle) in order to help align the kart without skidding.
-Another general tip: do your lap record attempts in the second lap, or later. It might not seem like it due to that starting boost, but your first lap will always be a couple of tenths slower.
-You lose much less speed bouncing off of deep water on NTSC than on PAL. In courses like KB1, DP3, or VL2, it may be worth jumping over the water to save driving distance, since you lose little speed on NTSC, but if you are playing PAL, the water is generally to be avoided.

P.S. Here's (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYounzgktmM) a video I uploaded last month of a 1'01"72 time driven on MC1 (the very first track in the game) in the PAL version with no NBTs, boosts, pipe jumps, or other advanced techniques-- just me trying to get around each turn as tight as I could. Sorry for the poor camera control in the first lap.
This time would make the top 100 and rate a Hero F on Sami's rankings, and is still 0"73 slower than the best time driven with this strat, but this should provide a good example of how you can get decent ranking times without advanced tricks, just good driving and a little luck.


Wow, thanks, I appreciate you typed that much for a mere newcomer such as myself, thank you very much. I was wondering if the snow slides used in vanilla lake are the same as the waterslides used on koopa beach.

Title: Re: Non-NBT Strats?
Post by Zarkov on 07/06/19 at 22:22:30
It's essentially the same action yeah. Hop sideways into the snow/water and release gas. I think snow slides slow quicker, though I may be wrong on that.

Title: Re: Non-NBT Strats?
Post by Antistar on 07/07/19 at 04:03:27

5874707174150 wrote:
Wow, thanks, I appreciate you typed that much for a mere newcomer such as myself, thank you very much. I was wondering if the snow slides used in vanilla lake are the same as the waterslides used on koopa beach.

We'll always be here to help and welcome new players as best as we can, this community is based on mutual help, giving tips and strats to each other, even if we're rivals on the track. Thanks Nick for that detailed post which proves once again everyone is welcomed there to learn basic (then advanced) techniques to play SMK better and better!

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